5mm Allen, ball end preferred
3mm Allen, ball end preferred
#2 Phillips head screwdriver, long
Small flatblade screwdriver, NON-MAGNETIC tip
Medium flatblade screwdriver, suitable for use as prybar
T30 Torx , tamper-proof
2 - 13X9mm Fuel line clamps, refer to service manual
Masking tape: useful for labeling fuel lines, vent
hoses, screw locations
Clear RTV silicone
2 Medium wire ties for
fuel tank vent hoses @ fuel cell
BMW service manual 01 51 9 799 595 is very helpful, though
Turn key in seatlock to left and hold in position.
Pull upwards and to rear, out of its catch, as far as first
detent position. Remove seat. Note when reinstalling, ride
height adjustment capacity at front of seat. Also that seat
MUST be installed and latched in place securely into second
detent position of rear catch.
2 Fairing Removal
Remove two 3mm Allen screws holding plastic air inlet snout
at oil cooler. These screws are located just inside the front
Remove turn signal assemblies (hand guards) by supporting
housing with one hand, while striking outer triangular corner
with a light downward stroke. (This would be a little harder
than you would be comfortable petting your dog). This will
pop the assembly loose from its three spring-tensioned retaining
clips: sort of a ball and socket setup with the ball ends
sticking out of the body; sockets on the turn signal housing.
Unplug the turn signal wiring harness connection. Note when
reinstalling that the turn signal harnesses must be reconnected;
also align the ball and socket joints and press or pop housing
firmly into place.
Remove the left and right side fairings by removing the ten
3mm Allens that hold each fairing in place. Next, gently pull
the section of fairing in the knee areas, just above the engine
mounts, out and away from the frame, approximately 1 - 2".
The goal here is to release the fixed pin on the frame from
the tension grommet on the fairing. Lift the fairing upwards
from the rear, carefully releasing the two vertically placed
retaining tabs per side, from the center gastank panel. Repeat
procedure for the other side. Reinstall in reverse order.
Official tightening torque is 3Nm. Back to
3 Fuel Tank Removal
Less fuel is better at this stage of the procedure. On right
hand side of bike, clamp off the fuel supply and return hoses,
on tank side of fuel hose-barbed splice connections. For additional
reduction in fuel spillage and loss, also clamp off the fuel
return hose (upper hose) on other side of hose-splice junction.
Next remove the 3mm Allen at the front of the center-tank
fairing panel, just behind the steering head. Also remove
the 5mm Allens at the lower left and right sides of the tank.
Disconnect the electrical harness connections at both the
fuel level sending unit (top of tank), and fuel pump (aft
and above the fuel hose-splice).
Note and label both smaller fuel tank vent hose attachment
points on the fuel pump manifold: the outer runs to the charcoal
canister; the inner hose also marked with small x's, is for
excess fuel drain/overflow to ground. Cut existing ear clamps
off, and disconnect. Note when reinstalling that medium wire/zipties
will be used to hold these in place. These are not under pressure
so this should be of little concern. Purists should acquire
them to ease the conscience, though not entirely needed and
complicates re-disassembly in the future.
Now loosen the worm drive clamps from the barbed hose-splice
junction, and disconnect the hoses. Some minimal fuel loss
is to be expected.
Pull tank upwards and to rear of the bike, away from the rubber
tank mounting grommets and steering head. If you could be
(and highly discouraged) sitting on the bike, you would pull
the tank into your lap. Reinstall in reverse order. Back
the socketed chip on the printed circuitboard. This can be
readily identified by the white plastic "H" shaped retaining
clip, which holds the chip securely in place. This clip is
shown just in front of the thumb in picture above. Also note
that this chip stands taller than any of the other chips mounted
on the board. Remove the H-clip using a NON-MAGNETIC thinblade
screwdriver, inserted into one of the two small slots opposite
each other, in the center of the clip. Gently pry the screwdriver
up, away from the circuit board. This should pop the clip
upwards and loose on this side. Use same procedure on the
other side of the retaining clip.
Note installation direction of the e-prom. This is designated
by a notch formed in one end. As shown in picture in step
5, the notch goes to the outside edge of the control unit.
Serious damage could result if a chip is installed backwards,
so this is a critical step.
shows new encryption board and e-prom to be installed. First,
install the encryption board into the existing, now vacant
socket on the circuitboard. Note that the black dot on the
left-hand edge of the encryption board (with Key 130 legible
at lower RH corner) will correspond to the notch orienting
the pins to their correct addresses. Partially install the
far row of legs or pins into the socket. Use thumbs and index
fingers to gently compress and align the near side row of
pins into the relevant sockets. Exercise caution to avoid
bending the pins! Carefully visually inspect the alignment
of the pins to their corresponding sockets. Only when certain
of correct alignment, support the circuitboard below the socket,
and gently press the encryption board downward and into place.
Follow same procedure for installation of performance chip
into the encryption board.
Store existing stock e-prom in black plastic box that the
performance e-prom was shipped in. You never know when you
may want to run the stock program.
Reassemble control unit in reverse order. NOTE: The H clip
will not be reinstalled. Also, run a thin bead of clear RTV
silicone over the existing sealer. This will prevent moisture
intrusion into the control unit.
Reinstall control unit, fuel tank, and remaining fairing trim
pieces. Back to top