Step 1 Seat Removal
Step 2
Fairing Removal
Step 3
Fuel Tank Removal
Step 4
Control Unit Removal
Step 5
E-Prom Installation

TOOLS REQUIRED:
• 5mm Allen, ball end preferred
• 3mm Allen, ball end preferred
• #2 Phillips head screwdriver, long
• Small flatblade screwdriver, NON-MAGNETIC tip
• Medium flatblade screwdriver, suitable for use as prybar
• T30 Torx™ , tamper-proof
• 2 - 13X9mm Fuel line clamps, refer to service manual
• Masking tape: useful for labeling fuel lines, vent hoses, screw locations
• Clear RTV silicone
• 2 Medium wire ties
for fuel tank vent hoses @ fuel cell

BMW service manual 01 51 9 799 595 is very helpful, though not required.

EXTERIOR DISASSEMBLY

Step 1 Seat Removal
Turn key in seatlock to left and hold in position. Pull upwards and to rear, out of its catch, as far as first detent position. Remove seat. Note when reinstalling, ride height adjustment capacity at front of seat. Also that seat MUST be installed and latched in place securely into second detent position of rear catch.

Step 2 Fairing Removal
Remove two 3mm Allen screws holding plastic air inlet snout at oil cooler. These screws are located just inside the front fairings.
Remove turn signal assemblies (hand guards) by supporting housing with one hand, while striking outer triangular corner with a light downward stroke. (This would be a little harder than you would be comfortable petting your dog). This will pop the assembly loose from its three spring-tensioned retaining clips: sort of a ball and socket setup with the ball ends sticking out of the body; sockets on the turn signal housing. Unplug the turn signal wiring harness connection. Note when reinstalling that the turn signal harnesses must be reconnected; also align the ball and socket joints and press or pop housing firmly into place.
Remove the left and right side fairings by removing the ten 3mm Allens that hold each fairing in place. Next, gently pull the section of fairing in the knee areas, just above the engine mounts, out and away from the frame, approximately 1 - 2". The goal here is to release the fixed pin on the frame from the tension grommet on the fairing. Lift the fairing upwards from the rear, carefully releasing the two vertically placed retaining tabs per side, from the center gastank panel. Repeat procedure for the other side. Reinstall in reverse order. Official tightening torque is 3Nm. Back to top

Step 3 Fuel Tank Removal
Less fuel is better at this stage of the procedure. On right hand side of bike, clamp off the fuel supply and return hoses, on tank side of fuel hose-barbed splice connections. For additional reduction in fuel spillage and loss, also clamp off the fuel return hose (upper hose) on other side of hose-splice junction.
Next remove the 3mm Allen at the front of the center-tank fairing panel, just behind the steering head. Also remove the 5mm Allens at the lower left and right sides of the tank.
Disconnect the electrical harness connections at both the fuel level sending unit (top of tank), and fuel pump (aft and above the fuel hose-splice).
Note and label both smaller fuel tank vent hose attachment points on the fuel pump manifold: the outer runs to the charcoal canister; the inner hose also marked with small x's, is for excess fuel drain/overflow to ground. Cut existing ear clamps off, and disconnect. Note when reinstalling that medium wire/zipties will be used to hold these in place. These are not under pressure so this should be of little concern. Purists should acquire them to ease the conscience, though not entirely needed and complicates re-disassembly in the future.
Now loosen the worm drive clamps from the barbed hose-splice junction, and disconnect the hoses. Some minimal fuel loss is to be expected.
Pull tank upwards and to rear of the bike, away from the rubber tank mounting grommets and steering head. If you could be (and highly discouraged) sitting on the bike, you would pull the tank into your lap. Reinstall in reverse order.
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Step 4 Control Unit Removal
The E-box (plastic housing where control units are stored) should be readily visible now that the tank has been removed. Remove the three Phillips head control unit mounting screws, as shown below. The third screw is not shown in the picture due to index finger placement.

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Pull control unit away from E-box mounting plate. Note that the electrical harness connection is permanently fixed to this baseplate. Exercise care when reinstalling to ensure that all pins are lined up within the connector housing.

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Place control unit face up, or with BMW/Bosch lable facing you, on a clean dust-free countertop or workspace. Remove four T-30 Torx™, tamper-proof screws as shown.

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Gently, and with non-magnetic slothead screwdriver, pry case-halves open from topside. Again remember the top has the label. Lift cover off of control unit from left-hand side as shown.

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Locate the socketed chip on the printed circuitboard. This can be readily identified by the white plastic "H" shaped retaining clip, which holds the chip securely in place. This clip is shown just in front of the thumb in picture above. Also note that this chip stands taller than any of the other chips mounted on the board. Remove the H-clip using a NON-MAGNETIC thinblade screwdriver, inserted into one of the two small slots opposite each other, in the center of the clip. Gently pry the screwdriver up, away from the circuit board. This should pop the clip upwards and loose on this side. Use same procedure on the other side of the retaining clip.
Note installation direction of the e-prom. This is designated by a notch formed in one end. As shown in picture in step 5, the notch goes to the outside edge of the control unit. Serious damage could result if a chip is installed backwards, so this is a critical step.

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Step 5 E-Prom Installation
Remove the chip from its socket by inserting the NON-MAGNETIC thinblade screwdriver between the short end of the chip and the socket, as shown below. Pry upwards gently. Work slowly and gently pry from alternating ends of the chip. DO NOT pry the socket away from the printed circuitboard! Make sure that it is the e-prom that is being removed. Avoid skin contact with the legs or pins on the chip as well, holding the silicon wafer from the short ends.

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Photo shows new encryption board and e-prom to be installed. First, install the encryption board into the existing, now vacant socket on the circuitboard. Note that the black dot on the left-hand edge of the encryption board (with Key 130 legible at lower RH corner) will correspond to the notch orienting the pins to their correct addresses. Partially install the far row of legs or pins into the socket. Use thumbs and index fingers to gently compress and align the near side row of pins into the relevant sockets. Exercise caution to avoid bending the pins! Carefully visually inspect the alignment of the pins to their corresponding sockets. Only when certain of correct alignment, support the circuitboard below the socket, and gently press the encryption board downward and into place. Follow same procedure for installation of performance chip into the encryption board.
Store existing stock e-prom in black plastic box that the performance e-prom was shipped in. You never know when you may want to run the stock program.
Reassemble control unit in reverse order. NOTE: The H clip will not be reinstalled. Also, run a thin bead of clear RTV silicone over the existing sealer. This will prevent moisture intrusion into the control unit.
Reinstall control unit, fuel tank, and remaining fairing trim pieces. Back to top


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